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VTEC= Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control
VVT-i = Variable Valve Timing with intelligence
VVTL-i = Variable Valve Timing and Lift with intelligence
i guess VTEC and VVTL-i is the same thing......VVT-i doesn't have the "Lift"....so i guess its inferior to VTEC and VVT-i
never drove a toyota car with VVTL-i......so i don't know how the thing works......driven Toyota Celica GT with VVT-i.....its not as good as the VTEC.
VVT-i = Variable Valve Timing with intelligence
VVTL-i = Variable Valve Timing and Lift with intelligence
i guess VTEC and VVTL-i is the same thing......VVT-i doesn't have the "Lift"....so i guess its inferior to VTEC and VVT-i
never drove a toyota car with VVTL-i......so i don't know how the thing works......driven Toyota Celica GT with VVT-i.....its not as good as the VTEC.
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yeah.....VTEC engines have high band power and torque....u won't get much power b4 it hits 6k rpm..... its fun to drive with that specification though...u get to make a lot of sound even if u are driving an auto trans......but wouldn't feel good if u have to drive like that for a luxurious car to get the full power.
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hi, guys sorry for replying late. im in australia now in sydney.its my first post in DTD. hope to have a good time wit u guys coz i have just finished my exam and on a holyday from my jod. i hope i will be replying the next few days. and ya, it's got a 6 speed manual and TRD's short shifter with TRD's clutch kit. i have chnaged the clutch plate coz i burned it out and replaced it with a normal one(couldn't find the TRD's one in bd) 
. super strut suspension. these are factory. and i've added velside kit bought frm australia, jrd 17" alloys frm malaysia, recaro seats and momo seat belt for driver, 235/45 maxix ZII series race tyres, APEXi fuel controller, interior trim colour, HID in high and low beam, exaust (forgot the brand name), blue neon but now i think its white(my younger bro bought it),and a normal sound system. and ya those decals are not for show, i bought a back fire but couldn't install it (couldn't get time, went to dhk on a month holyday), also bought injen cold air intake, aem pulley kit, hks iridium plugs, cf hood, fiber vs fenders,dc headers, skunk2 catback, eyelids, eibach coilover suspension, oem stut and saw bars, s7 manual reverse gauges, interior leather trim and alluminium dashboard trim, fuel pressure regulator, bremboo break disc, and break lines recently. i bought these stuf frm ebay usa, i think ill get these stuf witin 1 & 1/2 month. ill post the pics as asap. and one more thing, im confused wit the blue and wite neons, which 1 u guys prefer and wat u guys think abt the color. sorry for a long reply. pls advc me. cheers
. super strut suspension. these are factory. and i've added velside kit bought frm australia, jrd 17" alloys frm malaysia, recaro seats and momo seat belt for driver, 235/45 maxix ZII series race tyres, APEXi fuel controller, interior trim colour, HID in high and low beam, exaust (forgot the brand name), blue neon but now i think its white(my younger bro bought it),and a normal sound system. and ya those decals are not for show, i bought a back fire but couldn't install it (couldn't get time, went to dhk on a month holyday), also bought injen cold air intake, aem pulley kit, hks iridium plugs, cf hood, fiber vs fenders,dc headers, skunk2 catback, eyelids, eibach coilover suspension, oem stut and saw bars, s7 manual reverse gauges, interior leather trim and alluminium dashboard trim, fuel pressure regulator, bremboo break disc, and break lines recently. i bought these stuf frm ebay usa, i think ill get these stuf witin 1 & 1/2 month. ill post the pics as asap. and one more thing, im confused wit the blue and wite neons, which 1 u guys prefer and wat u guys think abt the color. sorry for a long reply. pls advc me. cheers amit_01
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Props to you. Lovely ride. I can see from your post that you have been researching about your car. Thats the way to go. Keep up the good work. I used to drive a 2000 celica GTS myself, awesome cars for the value.amit_01 wrote:hi, guys sorry for replying late. im in australia now in sydney.its my first post in DTD. hope to have a good time wit u guys coz i have just finished my exam and on a holyday from my jod. i hope i will be replying the next few days. and ya, it's got a 6 speed manual and TRD's short shifter with TRD's clutch kit. i have chnaged the clutch plate coz i burned it out and replaced it with a normal one(couldn't find the TRD's one in bd)
About the brake lines, get the stainless steel ones. And about the rotors, stick with the slotted ones. Cross drilled ones tend to warp. Just my suggestion. Which site do you frequent, www.everythingcelica.com? If you need the workshop manual for the celica GTS, let me know, I'll be more then happy to help out an enthusiast.
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thamz for the advice rxse7en, ya i bought the stainless steel one frm ebay usa, and abt the break discs i talked to a mechanic here about the brake discs he told me to buy cross drilled break discs he siad slotted ones are for race cars like circuit racing or lap racin and all bcoz it acts like a razor blade to slice ur pads everytime u press the break padals, thus the break pads wont last long and ya he also told me, some unknown brand cross drilled rotors tend to wrap, u hav to buy a good brand like brembo, aem,power slot, wilwood or project mu. thats the website i go for my celi, i got the docs to configure my apexi fuel controller. its a useful website. and abt the worshop manual, it will be a great help for m but ill get it when ill come to bd next time. ill contact, if its ok wit u. thanz ones again.
amit_01
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Definately, when you come next time, just contact me (pm me), I'll be more then happy to give you the complete tech and workshop manual.amit_01 wrote:thamz for the advice rxse7en, ya i bought the stainless steel one frm ebay usa, and abt the break discs i talked to a mechanic here about the brake discs he told me to buy cross drilled break discs he siad slotted ones are for race cars like circuit racing or lap racin and all bcoz it acts like a razor blade to slice ur pads everytime u press the break padals, thus the break pads wont last long and ya he also told me, some unknown brand cross drilled rotors tend to wrap, u hav to buy a good brand like brembo, aem,power slot, wilwood or project mu. thats the website i go for my celi, i got the docs to configure my apexi fuel controller. its a useful website. and abt the worshop manual, it will be a great help for m but ill get it when ill come to bd next time. ill contact, if its ok wit u. thanz ones again.
1st off, are you buying ONLY the rotors or the whole BIG BRAKE KIT?
1. Power slot is a sub of AEM. Their rotor upgrades are slotted NOT cross drilled.
2. Rotora Big brake kit is BOTH slotted and cross drilled.
3. Brembo ROTORS you can find BOTH cross drilled and slotted.Many people had problems with the ebay brembos.
4. You mentioned Project MU, funny, I never saw them manufacture cross drilled rotors!! They are all slotted. And one slotted and dimple. They are a top manufacturer of braking systems.
5. AEM big brake is SLOTTED AND cross drilled.
6. Wilwood-- you have to specifically ask them to drill it when you order, otherwise it is slotted. Wilwood doesnot have one specifically for the CELICA, you have to match it, if really interested.
"Wilwood currently does not offer a direct bolt-on replacement for your vehicle. Our line of brake kits is constantly growing. Should a brake kit be developed in the future for your vehicle we will let you know. Please fill out the information below." ---- this is what you get when you look for the CELICA.
for your reference:
http://www.project-mu.co.jp
www.wilwood.com
Why I suggested:
(NOT MY WORDS READ IT IN A GOOD WEBSITE)
After a little research I found myself asking, "Why slotted and not cross drilled, and what is the purpose of each?"
I found that Cross-drilled rotors are not really needed with today's type brake pads. The main reason for the drilled holes in cross-drilled rotors is to let the gas buildup escape. Much like other misnomers in tuning, the modern brake pad does not have the gas buildup that plagued its older counterpart. Additionally, by using cross drilled rotors you are actually losing some of the friction surface which is needed for better stopping power!
After learning this, I can only find one use for cross drilled rotors and that would be "looks". Some people say that cross drilled rotors allow for more cooling of the rotor... That is a myth. Most all cars today already have vented rotors. Additional cooling of vented rotors is only necessary if you are planning on racing for hours at a time.
Slotted rotors are cut for a different reason. Each time a slot passes over the pad, the slot wipes the pad clean of brake dust buildup and gives it a semi-clean friction surface, this gives you increased braking performance. Basically: Slotted rotors are designed for longer wear use. When rotors are slotted they are designed to draw the brake dust away from the pad, and off of the rotor altogether. If you look at a slotted rotor the slots are not straight. They are milled into the rotor in a clockwise direction, causing any left over brake chunks to be pushed out of the rotor as the pad contacts the rotor.
Now I know the option of both cross-drilled and slotted is available, but I would choose the slotted only to keep my friction surface from being affected.
This is why i suggested. Hell its your car, do what you think is right.
Cheers.
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